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From 1909 to 1915 issue field caps were made from pike grey (Hechtgrau) wool and starting in 1915, made from field grey (feldgrau) wool. The pike grey wool was fairly consistent in color but the field grey wools ranged from medium grey to a yellow green (nettle green) color. The sloping visors were made of thin untrimmed leather and later in the war of fiber cloth laminated into a stiff type of cardboard. These visors were painted black or grey. The underside of the visor either matched the top or was a brown color.
Issue caps had a lining that was a course weave natural colored (off white) linen. The sweat band was black or brown leather or leatherette that was sewn along the bottom to the base of the cap body and along the top to the lining liner. The neck curtain on issue caps were always functional and able to be unbuttoned and folded down. On the end of the button flap, next to the brass or steel buttons that were used to button the flap was sewn two extra buttons.
These were flat steel utility buttons that were used when the
neck flap was pulled down. It allowed a greater circumference
at the base of the flap when buttoned under the chin. On the left
side of the body of issue caps were two approx. 1 inch lengths
of cord. Positioned horizontally one above the other, they held
the stem of the oak of fir sprig that was traditionally worn by
the army (oak/summer and fir/winter). When the neck flap is folded
up and buttoned above the visor, both the extra set of buttons
and the two cords are concealed.

The issue cap was designed with a complex ventilation system. The issue type badge had a circular hole in the back of the badge and on either side a loop of heavy metal wire. The front of the cap had a circular hole through the body and lining with a smaller hole on either side. The badged was attached by pushing the wire loops through the small outside holes and securing it to the cap on the inside by passing a piece of leather through the loops and tying it off. This system enabled air to pass through the badge letters and cap body allowing circulation to the interior of the cap. As the war progressed this time consuming feature was often discarded when producing issue caps.
Some issue caps were made with a matching wool covered cardboard
visor. There are also existing examples of issue caps made of
heavy felt with either a felt, leather or painted fiber cloth
visor.
These guidelines were generally followed until the end of the
war. however, there are examples of issue caps without the side
cords and with slight variations in shape.
These caps are hard to find. Now there are an increasing number of fakes being offered on the market. Most of these follow exact patterns and either use original wools or excellent modern made wools.
Here are the best ways to check for fakes. If there is mothing or wear to the wool, this should mostly be on the outside exposed wool. Check the back side of the flap and between the flap and cap body. On an original cap you should see much less wear and mothing in these areas. If the wool is not mothed or worn, this would be rare but not impossible. Check the stitching. The dies used for the thread was not very stable and most surviving caps show that the exposed stitching has faded to some degree. The visors were generally very thin, perhaps 3cm. A thick leather visor or a visor of varying thickness would be suspect.
Check the edges of the sweatband. Check the backside of the leather
to see how worn the leather is. Lastly, originals that I have
seen have all had a loose weave linen lining. Some of the linen
has a slight sheen. The copies I have seen so far have had a high
grade burlap or cotton lining. I cannot say that these other materials
were never used, only that I have not seen them used in originals
I have examined.
This information applies only to issue caps. Tailor made caps
followed the same general style of issue caps but varied greatly
in materials and manor of construction. A large number of troops
(Almost all officers and non-commissioned officers and as many
as 15-20% of enlisted men) wore private purchase tailor made caps.
These are the caps most often found today. Why this smaller percentage
of headgear had a higher survival rate is a mystery. The most
logical explanation is that purchasers of tailor made uniforms
were of a higher economic class and more likely to preserve their
uniforms.
As with other types of militaria, it is the rarest that is usually
reproduced. There is a much better chance of a tailor made Austrian
cap being original than an issue cap.
About the author :
This articles was a contribution made for 'Before 1919' by Brian Calkins.
Brian is the author and illustrator of the book 'Collecting Military
Headgear of the first world war 1914-1918' , published by Andrew
Mowbray in 1990. (ISBN: 0-917218-44-2). The book is presently
sold out.
If you have any more questions or if you want to contact Brian,
please send an e:mail to : bcalkins@kutp.com
A site devoted to Great War Militaria (WW1) and collectibles. We have many topics covering the following studies : World War 1 Steel Helmets, Spiked helmets, various headgear including peaked caps or képi 's , (schirmmütze), uniforms, gas mask, infantry troops and equipment , badges, Uniform and Equipment of many nations, including Germany, France, Belgium and the UK. We also have some links to reenactment groups.