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There are 3 basic style sabers I build, all modifications of the original Trilogy movie ones and no two come out alike, even if I tried. There's the Vader style, Luke's from ANH and Jedi Luke's.

The main body of each saber starts out the same- the Vader and NH use a
1-1/2inch diam. by 12" long chrome plated plumbing pipe available in all hardware stores ($4.89). Flanged tail piece or threaded at the ends- makes no difference. For the Jedi type saber use a 1 1/2" by 6" long pipe called extension tube ($3.99). Use a 1 3/4" or 1 3/8" prong type sink hole cover to cap the D-Ring end of the saber.(More on that later)
The NH saber is the simplest, use a hacksaw to cut off the emitter end at that nice angle like the original graflex saber has. Masking tape the entire surface so if the hacksaw blade jumps around it won't scratch the pipe.Hacksaw halfway thru straight, then turn the pipe to the other side and meet your first cut at an angle from the tip inward. Use a fine metal file to even out your cut and smooth imperfections, even sand paper can work for the finishing touch. I use a round file on the inside to get rid of the sharp edge the hacksaw can leave. Then for the look of the smaller pipe showing about 1/2" past the end there are tons of choices and that's the really fun part. Auto parts stores sell single sockets, about a 1" diam. X about 3" (3.99) works great for the effect, also a bicycle part called axel peg extenders, 2 in a pkg.work great ($7.50). Asst. washers and grommetts on the ends look great for that serious functional look. Hint- When hacksawing pipe,cover the entire area with masking tape so if the saw blade skips around it won't nick the silver off the pipe or scratch it. I also spray WD-40 on the blade, then use a fine metal file to smooth it out,file outside and inside of pipe ( I have a round tapered metal file,works great.) To attach the smaller inside piece I use duct tape (my sabers would be lost without the stuff)wrapped around the end that goes inside the end of the saber but not far enough out to show beyond the main body pipe. Duct tape around enough to make a snug fit into the larger pipe. I then apply a few drops of glue around on the duct tape and cram it in to the point where it shows about 1/2 inch or so past the angle cut end. The glue is called CA, a sort of super glue I get at hobby stores that comes in a large volume container. JB weld or 2 part 5 minute epoxy works well. I'm a sloppy gluer so I keep acetone handy to catch drips.
The Vader saber uses black 1 1/2" diam. by 3" long piece of abs pipe on the end, also cut at an angle and sanded smooth. This fits over the front end of the saber, lined up holes can be screwed through the abs and pipe underneath to stabilize the fit and makes a neat looking button on the top of the saber. You need to go around the pipe with duct tape a few times and a few drops of glue to get the abs to fit tight, it won't show. Another abs section around the middle of the pipe about 2" long with some sort of buttons attached looks great.(abs comes 1 1/2" by 2' length,is easy to sand & hacksaw through and costs .64 cents)
The Jedi type saber is the most difficult. It uses the 1 1/2" by 6" pipe. A smaller pipe is used in the middle and sticks out about 5". To get the smaller diameter pipe to fit snug and centered I use 1 1/2 inch foam pipe insulation solidly duct taped to the smaller pipe (doesn't show),a few drops of glue and shoved down the outer pipe,leaving 5" exposed,.(6 ft length, variety of diameters, not critical, will have much more than you will ever need, $1.35) What is used for the center smaller pipe leaves many choices. Can use assorted size galvanized pipe,3/4" ,1/4",3/8" or 1/2" by 7-8" ($2.00). The choice is about what look you want, what you thread on to that smaller pipe for looks- I use washers, gaskets and O-rings for that look. To finish off where one pipe exits the other a metal SAE washer 7/8" and 1 1/2" diameter sits well,or there are several kinds of large plumbing washers like for garbage disposals, the washers or gaskets or whatever neat parts are threaded onto the smaller pipe will help hold the washer in place , plus glue and pipe foam.
The emitter end piece of the Jedi Saber # 9 is a hacksawed piece of 1 1/2 inch plumbing pipe, 2 inces long and filed smooth on my cut surfaces. There's a piece of
1 1/2 inch pipe foam cut to 2 inch length inside that, glued on to the inside. Then that's glued onto the smaller galvanized pipe and a washer is glued to the very end with a small gasket at the very middle (can't see it - have to look straight on) for that blade emitter look. You want to have the pipefoam right up to the edge of the end piece to make a surface area for gluing the washer on. Those are shock absorber bushings from an auto part store threaded on and aluminum washers in between. The bushings fit very tight, I had to use WD 40 on the galv. pipe to cram them down but that's what you want to hold everything in place, with this general method many looks and combinations are available.
Saber # 1 uses the smaller pipe into larger pipe method but that shaft piece is a hair brush with the brissles pulled out with pliers. The top piece at the end is 1/2 of a champaign bottle opener found in grocery and beverage stores. I'm not kidding when I suggest looking everywhere and anywhere for parts. My life has never been the same since I started this. I can't go anywhere without obscessivly looking for parts.

(Here's a helpful idea- when you want to glue a washer to a pipe or emitter type piece,( a hack sawed and sanded 1 1/2" X about 2" piece of pipe works nicely for the front of the Jedi type,with washers glued to the front with gaskets & whatever looks neat to emitt the blade) I cut to length and coil in there some of the pipe insulation foam with a little glue,bring it right to the edge of the end so you have a nice surface area to glue your finishing washer or whatever you use for that emitter end.This increases surface area for a good bond with the washer and is needed to secure the emitter on to the end of the smaller pipe.)
This is the basic start for each saber. Other suggested fun parts that add alot for affect and construction are the folloing:
Dirt devel fan belts size 1& 2 are very useful for looks and structure.
Hose clamps-3/4"-1 3/4"(.95) great for looks
A 3/4" steel coupling (plumbing dept. $2.09) looks great as an emitter for NH saber.
Also instead of galv pipe for Jedi saber, 1/2" pvc is nice,can use 9" long, the grey ones come threaded at ends, doesn't matter(.79). To center this and make a tight fit into larger main pipe, I use duct tape and pipe foam,a few drops of glue and cram the pipe in firmly, leaving about 5" exposed.
Asst plumbing O-Rings-size 5/16X1 1/16", 1 1/4X1, 9/16X1 5/16, 1 1/2X 1 1/4, 1 1/2X 1 5/16. This is not an exact science but I found it's good to have a variety of O rings around. Often there's one that fits exactly what I need for either a look or structural support. O rings also come in assortment packs in plumbing depts.
( $1.89)
Other very cool and useful black washers include a plumbing disposal cushion washer ( $2.49)- great looking for the saber ends and covering where things meet.
Plumbing slip joint washers for 1 1/2" pipe, these work well lined up intermittently with silver washers for the Jedi saber look.(.79)
Vaccuum cleaner fan belt,3/4" wide or so, length not important because you cut pieces as you need them. I use pieces glued on the pipe between it and whatever I'm gluing on as my control panel for button mount holder. It gives a more secure glue hold than metal to metal and looks more substantial.
There are alot of higher priced but really neat plumbing parts that make great looking emitter ends to sabers, I suggest spending alot of time looking in the plumbing section, shower heads with large silver washers added to the ends also can look great.
For the Jedi type saber, the assorted diameter and varying lengths of galvinized pipe work well to thread over with washers and any black rubber part with a hole in the middle- great fun. Also, I hate sabers that you pick up and they don't have any weight to them. I use 1" or 1 1/4" by 3 or 4" long piece of galvanized pipe,again duct tape and glue,make a very tight fit, shoved down into about the mid point of the saber pipe just to add weight in my hands.This is a very personal preference as far as where placed and amt of weight going into your saber.
Another Jedi plumbing piece that looks great is a threaded plumbing 1/2" X 6" cut off rise. Very neat looking,again use the foam pipe insulation for secure and centered fit.( $ 1.12)This is a strong black plastic ribbed pipe that goes well with a lot of inventve emitter end choices.I also use silver car pinstripe tape from auto parts stores around the low sections, emulates Jedi Luke's.

For the belt hook D-Ring and bracket, 2 hole type for picture hanging and small machine screws W/ appropriate small nut and washer for belt hanging off end.
Assorted size small black rubber grometts- great look-make a small hole at choice places in the pipe with a nail,enlarge the size of the hole with an ice pick sort of tool and popping in a grommet, they look great and stay perfectly. Creative visual effects are what makes this whole process individual and fun.
Another very original look I love for the Jedi type saber is to use a spring over the smaller 1" or 1 1/4" galvanized pipe. Cover the galv. pipe with either shiney silver or black contact paper- hobby shops call it trim sheets- a plastic/vinyl type contact paper. secure the galvanized cast iron pipe into the main 6" pipe with the duct tape/ glue and thread the spring over it- looks great. The best spring is called a utility comp. spring,either 1 1/8" X 6" or 1 3/8" X 6".($3.79) You leave enough of the galvanized pipe at the emitter end to secure some sort of creative end piece- your choice of looks.
I found a hairbrush at Target with a very cool spacey looking shaft. I pulled the brissles out with pliers and mounted it into the larger 6"X 1 1/2" pipe,. Looking in stores in unlikely places and using things inappropriatly is what this is about, it expands the imagination and creats uniqueness.

My best suggestion is to find a "browser friendly" hardware and auto parts store, Grab a basket and start walking around picking up things that interest you. In the hardware store, first choose whether you want the 12" or 6" pipe for which saber you're building, get that first and then try ideas with gaskets, washers, plumbing parts, etc. This was how I got the spring idea, take your time, see what fits, try different sizes of galvanized pipe and don't miss any section of the store. I've found the best stuff in the most unlikely places. Kitchen gadget departments are rich in ideas.If store employees ask what your doing because you've been walking back and forth for 2 hours, I tell them. I carry a picture of light sabers so they get it and leave me alone,but quite a few times I've been asked to bring a finished one in to show them.
One of the best parts of the hardware store are all those little drawers of things,go thru each one, that's where I've found my D rings and some great buttons and gaskets. Lots of fun.
In the auto part stores are the winshield wipers for the grips, I peel them off the hard plestic part, cut to the right length and use double sided (carpet) tape. Usually I use between 4 and 6 grips. The Vader type saber uses the abs black pipe about 5" long as a handle, sanded smooth and beveled. Auto part stores also have great black rubber gaskets and washers,all sorts of round little cylinder shaped stuff ( I'm always attracted to silver cylinders these days)- I've use car cigarette lighters as emitter ends, take your time,look everywhere. < Buttons and Control Panels- I like using a nail to hammer in a small hole in my saber pipes to mount or screw assorted buttons in. I know there are more sophisticated methods available, but my whole point here is that I use very simple methods so anyone can feel free to try their own saber. They are garage sabers for garage builders. So many people with beautiful home made sabers build them out of aluminum on a lathe- that discourages people from trying their first home made sabers in their garages using what they have. Before hammering away at your saber with a nail though, use a 1 1/4" dowel iside for support.
Many great pieces are available for the rectangular shape small box to mount buttons on. Radio shack is great for this but I've found them to be browser unfriendly.We have some huge electronic supermarket size stores that I can spend all day in.
At the hardware store I find these window slide stops work well to glue buttons on. Also in the drawers are those rectangular keys, assorted sizes. I glue a fitted piece of the vaccuum fan belt on the back then glue that on to the pipe, then add buttons.
Buttons are great fun and variety. Save your old watch batteries, they can look very cool. What I do is get a black rubber grommett that fits nicely around the battery and push the whole thing into a hole in the pipe. Because of that groove around the grommett the whole thing fits in well and stands out. I do use just a drop of glue on the battery to secure it in the grommett. I've also found great buttons at fabric stores,thrift stores- buttons off of old car sterios for $3.00 at thrift stores, mounted on to something like the switch off an old flashlight can look great. Radio shack has little toggle and rocker switches. Some of my favarite buttons have been from camera swap meets where I bought a bag of used odds and end camera parts for $5.OO. Call camera stores to find out about any swap meets,I was amazed at how many camera enthusiasts were out there and how often and close meets were held. I found 2 graflexs that way too. I've also purchased cheap broken cameras from thrift stores just to canabalize them for buttons and switches.
To fasten D Ring- I like to attach it to the side of the pipe rather then the end piece. I line up the hole bracket by where I want the D ring to go- I want it to hang on the belt clip and to fold over the end of the saber. So line up the bracket and with a small magic mrkr. dot where the screw holes will be. Put the dowel into the end of the pipe for support end hammer your screw holes. To make the holes cleaner, I pry them a bit with an ice-pick like tool. Then use a small washer and the screw (3/4" machine screws) through the top. Go in the pipe's inside, start with the inner screw and screw the little bolt on (frustrating) onto the screw. To tighten it down hold the nut still with needle nose pliers and turn the screw from the top until it's secure,then repeat with the other screw. Next is the end cap- I've had to sometimes remove one or two of the little prongs if the screw coming in interferes with the fit. I do use a little glue on the prong edges to secure it.You may have to bend the prongs a bit to get the right fit but it should pop right in.
General tools and equipment- Like I said, I keep this very simple:
Hammer, nails-varying sizes, small screw drivers, small needle nose pliers, reg. pliers, ice pick type tool, med-fine sand paper, metal file, hack saw, carpet tape, duct tape, masking tape, glue- from hobby store CA type, acetone (for sloppy gluers like me) & the 2 D ring screws, nuts etc. I'm probably forgetting a thing or two.


I know alot of this is hard to follow so I'm sending these photos to help.I can also be E-mailed with questions to JediRider@aol.com.