This light saber was made by Jedi1701d

How to build the lightsaber you see on the top.

First the parts...starting from the far left and ending at the far right. The first piece is a portion of a small shower head assembly that cost about 11$ and was the single most expensive part of the hilt. I will get the product company name and model # later. the second piece is a washer which fits over the core piece (An alluminium shat that is 3/8 inch in diameter on THE INSIDE and 1/2 inch diameter on THE OUTSIDE, this is important.) this washer needs to be glued to the washer head. The next is a rubber stopper (called a #36 top bibb gasket stk no 35320b made by the danco company) This can be found with all the o- rings and stoppers in the plumbing section of home depot. this needs to be glued to the washer. (I use Araldite super instant Epoxy order number SY-IN it comes in a yellow bubble back and has the two cylinder squeege things) the next piece is another washer which need to be glued to the rubber stopper. . Make sure the washers you but fit over the core shaft you use. The next piece is a sawed off section of copper tubing measuring 9/16 inch on the inside diameter and 10/16 or 5/8 inch diameter on the out side. It must be this size to fit OVER the aluminim shaft. On either end of the copper shaft piece is some black electrical tape which I carefully cut into thin strips and carefully wrapped around each end to give the overall assembly a much more polished look. I suggest wrapping the tape just a little bit over the ends of each end so you can tuck it slightly undernaeth each side. (makes it looke better) To have the copper pieces fit on the aluminium shaft you need to wrap some electrical tape around the core shaft then fit the copper pieces over the tape.

(A note on the copper pieces. you will need a hack saw to cut off these pieces for the copper shafts are quite long. I also recommend a metal file to sand the sawed edges before applying them to your hilt or it will look like crap)

Next is one rubber stopper, two washers, one rubber stopper, and another piece of copper. Over this second piece of copper is the rubber washer from the unused portion of the shower head. the rubber stoppers need to be glued to the washers as they will curl up if not glued into place.(convienent huh?) then a series of rubber stoppers and washers follows. the first piece is a rbber stopper which needs to be glued to the following washer. The rest of the stoppers and washers need not be glued into place as they will hold each other in place.Make sure you end with a rubber stopper. The we reach the main hilt.

So far we have used

One shower head
Some copper tubing
Some aluminium tubing (for the core, don't cut this until nearly finished!!)
19 (give or take) Washers. Except for the ones used nearest the emitter these washers are grouped in groups of two or three washers each

The final washer need not be glued in place. The hilt can be found in the plumbing section and is 6 inches long. one end is slighlty wider than the other and this made certain aspects easier (explanation later) Just make sure one end is the SAME diameter as your washers!!! On the end of the plumbing piece that will fit up against the series of washers and stoppers (use the smaller end) wrap some electrical tape so that over half the width over hangs the end. Then tuck the excess tape inside the tube making sure it's firmly adhered to the inside. This will make the fit more snug. Make sure to fit the last stopper completely inside the hilt. this will also help make the fit more snug. After testing this fit measure your core shaft and make a mark on it where it will end just before the end of the hilt. Remove the hilt and saw off the excess aluminum shaft.

Now replace the hilt. put some washers inside the hilt over the core shaft so they fit up snug against the tapered section where the hilt becomes smaller. Glue these in place with LOTS of expoxy, and a couple more washers, Lots of Epoxy, washers, EPOXY you get the idea. This holds everything together so dont spare the epoxy. Just inject it right into the hilt then mix it up inside witha stick or something.

For the end I used a small sink drain I found at wal mart. I'm not happy with this end piece and am looking for another but for now that's what I used. for the belt attachment piece I used what was called a "2 wire rope clips with one thimble" package made by peerless chain company part no 4502105 that I found at wall mart. I removed the "saddle" from one of the wire rope clips and attached it to the sink drain with the nuts. To the wire rope clip I attached one end of on of thos "pully" key chains. That way they can be easily attached to a beltloop by attaching the other end of the keychain to the belt loop. Saber can be securely fastened, yet removed at will. Now just glue the sink drain over the end of the saber.

The grip on the saber is a series of different style O rings found at home depot. Just make sure to get the right size and get whatever style you like. Two O rings also are applied to the end of the hilt neer the series of washers and rubber stoppers. The buttons are two hearing aid batteries found at wall mart (duracell DA675) these needs to be epoxyed into place. The metal box on the side is two pieces from a package of assorted chokes and coils from radioshack cat no. 273-1601. these also need to be glued into place. and that's it!

Suggestions. TEST FIT EVERYTHING A BILLION TIMES! BEFORE GLUING!!! It makes things easier. Measure the appropriate space needed for the emitter to be glued on and do it last!! It makes glueing the hilt in blace so much easier! Be patient when sawing through your copper tubing. Bending off that last little bit will only make your filing tkae that much longer!

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