Salalah

This 1598 map made by Ortelius, one of the greatest map-makers of the 16th century, depicts Dhofar as an important port city of the trade route. Northern Oman was then known as Ormus which later lent its name to Hormuz.

Dhofar Precambrian basement sediments have formed the Dhofar mountains in the far south of Oman. The mountains and narrow coastal belt benefit each year from moisture-laden south-west monsoon winds or khareef. Rains from early July to the end of August and heavy mists create lush green hillsides and cool temperatures more reminiscent of an English spring than an Arabian summer. Immediately behind the mountain range the desert heat continues to scorch the earth. With obvious reason, this seasonal transition has created a haven for many forms of wildlife and has made possible spectacular mountain drives and hikes. The best time to visit is September, when mists have lifted to reveal the luxuriant green landscape. The capital of the southern region of Dhofar is Salalah, known throughout Arabia as 'The Garden City'.It has the feel of a small East African coastal town, relaxed, cool and humid and rife with banana, coconut, sugarcane and papaya plantations. Beyond the plains of Salalah where frankincense trees grow, rise the wooded hillsides of Jabal Qara. The vegetation that clads the southern mountains is unique in Arabia.

The dominant and endemic Anogeissus dhofarica was only scientifically described in 1979 despite its abundance. Among the vegetation are trees more commonly associated with Africa and Asia, such as the enormous and bizarre baobab. There is a population of about 50 baobab trees growing on the sloping valleys of Wadi Hinna, not far from Salalah. Perhaps these are a relict population of a once wider distribution of the species or perhaps they are a reminder of early traders from East Africa. The desert rose is an attractive and distinctive plant which was used for medicinal purposes by the Jibbali people of the Dhofar hills Although there are no permanent watercourses in Dhofar, during the monsoon great waterfalls tumble over limestone cliffs into the sea several hundred feet below, and springs such as those at Ayn Razat and Ayn Jarsis bubble with freshwater. Pools remain in many of the wadi beds long after water has ceased to flow, and, some, such as Wadi Darbat, contain a constant supply of water for resident and passing wildlife. Heading east from Salalah, monsoon clouds quickly disperse as they spill over the mountain tops of the Jabal Samhan. Similarly, Jabal al Qamar to the west only enjoys monsoon mists and rains during exceptional years. However, even where the greenery ends, wildlife thrives. Leopard, caracal, hyaena, wolf and ratel all find territories along with many others. Hedgehogs and the nocturnal vegetarian porcupines leave evidence of their presence with a handful of shed quills, and birds pass through in their thousands. Where wadis reach the sea, lagoons, or khors, form along the coast, acting as a focal point for wildlife, especially birds. Reeds and reedmace typically line the landward rims of the khors while the salt tolerant mangrove trees spread to seaward in more saline conditions.

Some of the more spectacular birds to frequent Oman are to be found in khors. The stately flamingo filters food from the shallow sediments, colourful ducks, storks, stilts, plovers, sandpipers, egrets and herons wade nearby and the glossy ibis feeds on insects at the water's edge. Some of the khors are set aside as reserve areas where visitors are not allowed. However, the majority will remain open to the public provided that due care and respect is paid to the wildlife and its fragile habitat. To the north-east of Salalah, still in the southern province of Dhofar, is a beautiful sand beach 30 km in length that sweeps the bay that is the mouth of Oman's largest and probably most spectacular wadi - Wadi Shuwaymiyah. The wadi forms a huge snaking canyon, sided by dramatic vertical cliffs of white limestone. Long fingers of porous travertine form stalactites along overhanging cliff edges and deep permanent pools of sweet water are advertised by the growth of surrounding vegetation. The scenery is fascinating and quite breath-taking and the canyons form a natural refuge for wildlife and may be considered a valuable national nature reserve. Hyrax, a colonial rodent-like animal that through its bone structure shows a common ancestry with elephant and rhinoceros, will issue its warning to others on the approach of human visitors and dart into the many nooks and crannies between boulders on the canyon floors. Hyaena, ibex and gazelle are among many other mammals to be seen and Green Pigeons can be found roosting in wild fig trees, while owls call at night. Wadi Shuwaymiyah lies in a remote and difficult region to access. Perhaps this is fortunate, for the wealth of natural beauty may remain relatively untouched and undisturbed. The coast of Dhofar boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in the Sultanate. At certain times of the year many of these beaches are criss-crossed by the tracks of turtles that return seasonally to nest. The beaches below the spectacular headlands and cliffs of Ra'as Hamar, just half an hour's drive west of Salalah, is one spot where it is possible, in late summer months, to watch both green and loggerhead turtles nesting simultaneously.